Two thousand years ago Roman ships used to enter the famous Aegean barbour of Heracleia through the delta of the River Meander, today’s Menderes. With its buge warehouses and hinterland producing the three sacred crops of the Mediterranean, olive oil, grapes and figs, Heracleia was a major port.
Established in the 5th century, the city is named after the mythological hero Heracles. It was originally built by the Carians, an indigenous Anatolian civilisation who only became Hellenicised at a late date. In the early years it was affiliated to the Atticodelos Maritime Confederation, later subjugated by Mausolos, and during the Hellenistic period was governed by the Seleucids and Kingdom of Bergama in turn. The city enjoyed its heyday during the Hellenistic and Roman eras. Subsequently time, which leaves nothing unchanged, wrought its work here too. Menderes built up the Söke plain, which eventually extended so far that it blocked the mouth of the Latmos Gulf transforming it into a lake. This is Lake Bafa which today has an area of 65 square kilometres and is 25 metres deep.
Until recently the lake was famous for its ecosystem is badly deteriorated today. Irrigation has reduced the amount of water being carried by the Menderes, resulting in a two metre fall in the water level and increased salinity. The bird population however, remains high and includes such species as crested cormorants, pelicans, grey berons, flamingos, mallards, and numerous other varieties of gulls, ducks and other water birds.
Heraclecia lies near the main road from Bodrum to İzmir along the southern Aegean coast. After passing Milas and Selimiye, there is a turnoff to the north just before Bafa. The once splendid port city of Heracleia is now stranded inland on the northeast shore of Lake Bafa. This road takes you through Çamiçi village to the village of Kapkırı, through a strange landspace of huge amorphous volcanic boulders. A sense of enchantment begins.
Kapkırı stands on the site of the ancient Heracleia, surrounded by the colossal boulders which leave no land suitable for cultivation but a few small meadows. Today the population of three hundred souls depend on tourism for a living.
The area is filled with ruins which cover a long time span from the Hellenic to Roman and finally Byzantine times. Some of the Carian walls and towers which fortified the city are still standing. The Doric style Temple to Athena dominates the scene from its high perch on a site like an eagle’s eyrie. The central area with the Agora, whose walls and shops are well preserved, council chamber, ruined baths and theatre, is a typical Roman settlement. Near the old harbour is a Temple of Endymion.
The Byzantine monastery communities liked to build on remote sites, and a guide is necessary to negotiate the maze of narrow tracks in the mountains if you want to visit the Yediler and other ruined monasteries here. The strenuous climb is worth it for the spectacular view of Lake Bafa far below, encircled by its wild mountainous shores. As evening approaches and the sinking sun turns the waters of the lake to gold the scene is at its most magical. Goats nibbling at the grass and birds soaring in the air are the only signs of life in this vast remoteness.
While exploring the castle I saw rock tombs down at the edge of the lake, and on a small rocky islet more were visible. Just then a large beron took flight and I pressed the shutter release. It was a marvellous sight.
The small islands in the lake are also full of early Christian and Byzantine ruins. During my few days stay at Bafa I went out on the lake in a motor boat several times. The loneliness of the sand causeways linking former islands to the shore, and the ancient quarries which had supplied marble for the celebrated Temple of Apollo at Didyma aroused a strange sense of human insignificance. Long centuries ago when the lake was still part of the sea ships had docked here to load up marble for Didyma. Upon their arrival the marble blocks had been carried up to the temple site by oxen. But the temple was never completed, and those parts which were built with destroyed by earthquakes.
When the moon is full it hangs over Lake Bafa like a silver tray, reminding us of the story of Selene, goddess of the moon, who fell in love with the handsome shepherd Endymion on the shores of this lake. On the terrace of one of the openair restaurants on the lake shore, where steps cut into the rock by the Romans still remain, you can sip a glass of raki or wine and enjoy mullet cooked on a griddle accompanied by a delicious Çoban salad. Perhaps the Heracleians did much the same, you reflect, as the intervening time seems to slip away, bringing the past almost within reach.
Although Lake Bafa is known to all who pass this way, few stop to explore. Yet it is easier to reach Heracleia than it was a few years ago. The road has now been asphalted and reaches right into the village. There are more places to stay, including small pleasant hotels. The inhabitants are friendly and welcoming. So next time you are in southern Turkey do not forget to explore Lake Bafa.